In a word, lots. The American Cheese Society (ACS) annual cheese fashion show is in Seattle this week and we are doing our part as the unofficial host of the event. Connie is organizing the huge cheese sale at the end of the conference while Shane and Jana are competing in the Merchandising Competition under the nom de guerre "Tomme Raiders." The highlight of the week is the Festival of Cheese (Saturday, the 28th from 5:30-9:00 at Benaroya Hall) where a dazzling array of 1,400 cheeses are presented. It really is quite a spectacle. Add just like in Willy Wonka's chocolate factory, everything is edible. Go to www.brownpapertickets.com for tickets.

On that note, we have several cheeses to tell you about. Let's start with America, shall we?
Mt. Townsend Creamery has a couple of new cheeses based on their popular Seastack and Cirrus cheeses. First is the Truffle Stack which, as you can guess, is their classic Seastack (soft-ripened cow) with truffle. Another great new product from them is the Off Kilter. You're not the only one who thought beer and cheese would be great together-so did the guys at Mt. Townsend. They teamed-up with Pike Brewery to produce this new cheese washed with Kilt Lifter.
We think the Dinah's Cheese Camembert-style round from Kurtwood Farms on Vashon will be taking home some hardware at this year's ACS. Come in to the shop and taste it before the judges do.
Finally, we love the Queso del Invierno from Vermont Shepherd. This is only the second cheese made by the company and it's delicious. The Invierno is a semi-hard raw milk cow/sheep tomme. Grassy and milky, it melts in your mouth.

In the same vein is the Tomme de Cressoney. This tomme is softer and more direct with barnyard aroma and a fresh milk flavor.
We are proud to be the only place in Seattle offering Casaticata di Bufala, from Lombardy. This is brick-shaped, soft-ripened buffalo milk cheese that is rich and silky. Prosecco may have been invented to pair with this cheese. We'll continue our tasting research and get back to you.
Finally, please introduce yourself to Ruaraidh Stone's Strathdon Blue from Scotland. This is a Neal's Yard cheese that some compare to a Gorgonzola. It's beautifully veined and, as with all great blues, the cheese takes center stage with the blue singing back-up.

We have a new chocolate to tell you about. From Madrid comes Chocolate Organiko. In eight flavor combinations, including Lemon & Pimento and Almond & Honey, these fine chocolates are stylishly packaged and perfectly balanced. As with most chocolate brands, the true test is the quality of their plain dark chocolate. Organiko's dark is the real deal. Oh, and you won't believe the price.

Lugana Fresh Pasta is another new one for us. Since they've moved in, we've struggled to keep these locally made, bronze cut pastas in the refrigerator. They are ideal for pasta salads and the various shapes hold on to sauce perfectly.

Have you ever eaten at Skillet? It's a modified Airstream Trailer fit with a kitchen. They serve gourmet food at lunch time around the city. Their signature ingredient is Bacon Spread (formerly - and hopefully once again referred to as bacon jam) and it is, you guessed it, spreadable bacon. You may remember them demonstrating this product a couple of years ago at the Seattle Cheese Festival. The rabid response to this demo and product began the quest for a jar of bacon. You don't have to think too hard to come up with ways to use this product. We're proud to be Skillet's very first retail customer. Give it a try and it will become like mustard in your fridge- always there.

Stephen got a deal on the last remaining bottles of Viña Mayor Reserva 2003 Ribera Del Duero. It is a mouthful of Tempranillo grapes and balanced oak. Spain's noblest of wines made nearly perfect by the folks of Vina Mayor. The Reserva has a little brother, too. The Crianza 2005 Ribera del Duero is delicious and makes a great table wine. Our Rosé island remains bountiful and ready for the last stretch of summer. Try an original Tempier Bandol or the sublime Pinot Noir Rosé from J.K. Carriere. With dozens more to choose from, you'll be sure to drink up all the remaining summer sun. Since we are dropping names, here's a big one: Leonetti. We have a few bottles of Washington's premier wine still available. Finally, I can't let the opportunity to plug an Italian wine go by so here goes: Renato Ratti 2005 Barolo Marcenesco is in very limited supply here at the shop. If you like high scores and a ton of awards to pair with great wine, you will enjoy this Barolo. Before fall comes, grab a couple of these pristine examples of Italy's noblest of wines.

Upcoming Wine Tastings
As many of you know, we present free wine tastings every Saturday upstairs in our Wine Department. Our tastings go from 2-4pm and are traditionally paired with cheeses chosen by Connie Rizzo, our Cheese Buyer. You may not know this but Connie has been buying cheese for 20 years. Needless to say but she knows her stuff. Connie also knows her wine so you can be sure that the cheeses she chooses for our tastings are spot on.

In an effort to extol the virtues of the Lugana pasta I mentioned above, take advantage of the last of the tomatoes in the garden and squeeze a few more weeks out of summer by making and serving this pasta salad for a dinner on the deck. Rosé is the perfect foil for this light and savory salad.

I gave Nate the opportunity to pick only five new products for this newsletter. No problem, right? Wrong. Nate's been working hard to keep things fresh and current while faithfully preserving the traditions that have made DeLaurenti excel for over 60 years. It was no easy feat for him so, together, we pared the list to the following :
Pomi Strained Tomatoes now come in a 1500g tetra pak box. Not only are these tomatoes wonderful, but the packaging is also fantastic. When style and taste matter, Pomi's your tomato. Olio Verde is easily one of our favorite extra virgin olive oils from Italy. Every year, this powerful, complex and balanced oil proves that it is world class . That's why we were excited to hear of their Olio di Oliva al Limone. That's right - lemon infused olive oil from Olio Verde. Next time you cook fish, you really should try this oil - it's spectacular.

More and more we have requests for gluten-free products. In response, Nate found Italian gluten-free crackers from Galbusera. Made from corn and rice, these crackers are a wonderful platform for cheese and charcuterie. You have read of our love affair with La Vecchia Dispensa products before. They continue to amaze us with a new line of accompaniments including a Balsamic Mayonnaise, a Bruschetta spread, a Carmelized Onion in Balsamic Vinegar spread and a Modena Salsa Verde. Again, when style and taste are important... Finally, we present a Black Truffle Dijon Mustard. Now before you think we've gone off the deep end because truffles are "so last year," I implore you to reconsider. The perfect application for KL Keller's truffled mustard is with paté . Think about it.

We're happy to announce many of our Cheese Festival Seminar speakers' cheeses are currently in the case. In particular, we have Ms. Zepos' L'Amuse Gouda (an aged, crystallized number), Comte and Wilder Weide (a very firm, caramelized gouda). From the Caves of Jasper Hill (and Matteo Kehler), we have Oma, the mercurial Winnimere (bark-wrapped, washed rind cow that's all at once pungent, rich and mushroomy), the Bayley Hazen Blue and their Landaff (a n ode to Caerphilly from England, this cow's milk cheese has spicy cheddar notes that would be great with a porter.) Kurt Timmermeister brings us his Dinah's Camembert (from Vashon Island). You'll be familiar with Mary Keehn of Cypress Grove's signature cheese, Humboldt Fog and their relatively new Truffle Tremor (t he Fog without the ash but with black truffles ). And finally, from Port Townsend, Mt. Townsend Creamery's Red Alder (little firm disc of cow's milk), the Scotch Ale (you guessed it: washed with Pike Brewery's Scotch Ale) and their ode to Monterey Jack - New Moon.

Most everybody was a fan of Fra' Mani salami. What wasn't to like? They use beautiful ingredients , expertly cured. The challenge was getting their salami here in the store. We will continue to work on procuring their salami, but we're proud to offer yet another handmade salami to our assortment: Creminelli Meats. You may remember these guys as they had a little counter outside our store for about a year. They recently closed the retail part of the operation here in Seattle, but they continue to cure their salami in Utah. We'll bring in their Barolo, Tartufo, Piccante, Wild Boar, and Sopressata. They are delicious and we hope you like them as much as we do.

New releases from Buty Winery include The Beast. Despite the horrible pun, the Beast is a remarkable second line for Nina and Caleb. It's their chance to sow some wild oats, make some interesting, unusual wines. Their decisions in these regards differ from year to year so the Beast can never be pinned down. When you run out of the Buty Rediviva or Conner Lee Chardonnay, reach for a Cinsault or Rosé from the Beast. You won't be settling.

Upcoming Wine Tastings
In honor of the Cheese Festival, we will present free wine tastings each Saturday during the month of May upstairs in the wine department. Saturday tastings happen from 2- 4 PM, as usual. So what's the big deal? It's Cheese Festival Month!

Here's what's in store shortly...

01 May
Spanish Wines including a 100% Mencia and a chilled Sherry

08 May
Italian wonders from Noble's Naomi Smith's trip

 

You may remember Justin Lyon. Justin ran our café for a time a few years ago. He's moved on as a private chef and travels between Hawaii and Indian Wells, California with his beautiful wife and two children. Needless to say, the guy can cook. He made this dish for a Family Dinner here at the store (we do family dinners ever so often here. They're fun and exclusive and the crew gets to show off a bit when the inspiration hits them.)

Spot Prawns are perfect right now in the Market - if you believe the fish guys and we do most of the time.

Connie has found a cheese I think the entire staff has described as "really good." Because we like to keep things simple around here, we're calling this the best cheese of 2010 (so far). Truly, this Val d'Aosta raw cow's milk cheese is fantastic. Toma di Gressoney is slightly washed in brine and has a semi-soft pate. The cheese gives a slightly salty and beef broth flavor. We're trying it right now with a Pinot Nero from the Val d'Aosta. Aren't we pretentious?! Connie's on a roll. She's been looking for a Scamorza from Calabria that reminds her of the Scamorza of her childhood. She thinks she's found it. I'm not going to elaborate too much on this cheese other than giving you the name and the description from the producer's literature: "Scamorza the Plain: The Scamorza is a spun paste cheese made with raw milk, pasteurized whole cow, also available smoked." You might have a few questions after reading this so allow me to interpret. The cheese is not smoked and is made with pasteurized cow's milk -similar to mozzarella. It will remind you of grandpa if grandpa was from Italy.

There's more new cheese....
Saint-Maure may be somewhat familiar to regulars of the shop. We have carried the French version many times in the past. We proudly tell you of a new and different version from Belgium: Sainte-Maure Belgique Cendrée. This is a beautiful goat, ripened with vegetable ash. The ash lends a slightly peppery note to the cheese. The pate is classically French goat: dense and peanut butter-esque. We have the 3 pound logs of this cheese (as opposed to the 7oz log you are familiar with).

Finally, we have Chimay Gran Cru. This Belgian cow's milk cheese is washed in Chimay beer and boasts a pleasant pungency. Wash it all down with Chimay Beer (available upstairs in our wine department).

Perigord Black Truffles are here! We have 10 available this week. The last order we received was great and exceeded our expectations so we're buying more. First come - first served.

Black Garlic is new. Boy is it new. Black garlic is fermented for three weeks - under strictly controlled conditions. The best way to use this garlic is at the very last minute. Heat reduces the sweetness and flavor of black garlic so add it at the end of your cream sauce or with butter over pasta. Roasted vegetables love this garlic - toss it in when you take it out of the oven - just before serving.

Steven Smith knows about tea. He created Stash Tea, grew the business then sold it. He created Tazo Tea, grew the business then sold it. Tired of hanging out in France, he decided to head back to the states (Oregon, to be precise) and start again. His eponymously named teas are clear, crisp, honest examples of a craft perfected over decades. Oh, and we carry them now. Check them out.

Maybe you'll be buying a Champagne in the near future. If you do, look for two little letters on the label: RM. RM stands for "récoltant manipulants" and it simply means the folks who made the Champagne also grew the grapes. Big deal, right? Well, yes, it is a big deal. As is the case with farmstead cheese, control and care matters and you can taste the differences. Grower Champagnes are the life's work of the producer. They see the bottle of bubbly as a child. They've given birth to it, nurtured it, bottled it and put their name proudly on it. The knock on grower champagnes is that they can be inconsistent from vintage to vintage. But as they say over there: "vive la différence". You can buy a Veuve Cliquot or Moet et Chandon. These wines are fine and never change. But why not celebrate the seasonal changes in perfectly made champagne by buying a grower Champagne? You'll be supporting a family in France (and a couple of families over here) and delighting in your decision.

Upcoming Wine Tastings
Every Saturday from 2-4pm upstairs in our wine department. They're always free and always expertly paired with cheese from our deli. Mark them on your calendar - a real no brainer.

30 January
Looking for value. Staff picks from around the world.

6 February
More budget minded wines. This time from the Northwest.

12 February (FRIDAY!)
An artificially big day is coming. Let's pre-func! A special Friday tasting with ideas for Valentine's Day.

13 February
More thoughts for Valentine's Day....like bubbles.

 

Michele (my wife), makes this very rarely. We can't figure why because it's really quite delicious and easy. Perhaps because it can be messy. Fear not! Dive in and go at it.

Panettone is traditional Italian Christmas cake and we have it in spades. Never before have we carried so many varieties: Loison, Rustichella d'Abruzzo, Perugina, Le Logge, Colavolpe, Sclafani and Bindi are our brands this season. We have mini's, one-pounders, one kilogram panettone and all the various flavored panettone from Rustichella. You may notice the absence of Le Tre Marie brand panettone. Quick story: after we ordered hundreds of Tre Marie panettone last year - as we've done for several years - we noticed the same panettone at a locally based, big-box warehouse retailer whose name rhymes with "frostco". No sense competing with those guys so we searched for a new relationship and found Loison. As one 80 year old customer said: "Loison is the best panettone I've ever had." He's right! Pandoro is the elegant pound cake-like cake from Italy. Traditionally served dusted with powdered sugar, this lift cake is wonderful when grilled and served with coffee. We offer Loison's perfect example of this Italian favorite.

Le Logge Panforte is also available again this season here at DeLaurenti. Panforte ("strong bread") is a dense cake of fall spices, almonds, honey, molasses, etc. which traditionally hails from Siena, Italy. We're proud to offer several brands, including Panforte by the pound. Panforte is perfect with coffee or stronger cheeses. Fruitcake candied fruits are available as well. For over 60 years, DeLaurenti has been the Seattle source for fruitcake ingredients. We even have hard-to-find candied citron (both whole and diced) which will really set your cake apart from your neighbor's.

Carsten's Lübecker Marzipan, in many, many forms, makes its seasonal return as well. Lübecker (from the town of Lübeck) Marzipan is famous for its uncompromising quality. 70% marzipan paste and 30% sugar and that's it - nothing else. This is Germany's finest. While we're on German candy, let's see what Kinder has in store for us this Christmas....

You know Kinder Eggs. Well they make so many more little surprises for the children including chocolate Santas, ornaments and even huge eggs. Check out our Kinder wall for some unique stocking stuffers.

On a completely different note, we proudly sell Macrina Stuffing Mix for your special meal. As expected, Leslie Mackie only uses the finest ingredients for her one-of-a-kind stuffing. The best part is you don't need a bird to prepare it. In a pan and in the oven and you're set.

Finally, we have gift boxes available for the perfect hostess gift. One box features Sapori di Napoli Girelli Pasta and our very own Sugo della Casa Pasta Sauce. Our other box features our hand selected Umbrian Extra Virgin Olive Oil and Balsamic Vinegar. Anyone can bring a bottle of wine but it takes someone special to bring DeLaurenti branded products to the party!

One or two more things: we have whole fillet bacalao (salted cod) as well as Molinari Coteghino and Biroldo (blood sausage) for those who remember how to prepare them. If you can't remember, read our recipe pages for some traditional ideas.

Lots of seasonal cheeses are now available in the deli including Mini Stiltons (7-8 pound masterpieces in blue), Grafton Truckles (2 pound, cloth-wrapped cheddars from Vermont) and my favorite: Tomme Jura. Tomme Jura is our long-searched for replacement of Vecherin Mont d'Or. The Mont d'Or is extinct in the US because it's made with raw milk and while the Jura is pasteurized cow's milk, the flavor is powerful and long lasting - just like the Mont d'Or. Finally, we have plenty of Teleme Cheese for your Christmas Eve polenta and sauce - grandma will be happy. You probably knew we make our own Truffle Butter and Porcini Butter. We have plenty to baste what's coming out of the oven or to sauté your veggies. Try sautéing your mushrooms in Truffle Butter next time and see how the crowd reacts...

Below is a list of special cooking and product demonstrations taking place over the next couple of weeks here at the store. Print it out and tape it to your bathroom mirror so as not to forget...

Olio Novello is literally "new oil" from Italy. We have the freshly pressed oils flown over to the store so we can taste these amazing oils just days after they're created. Below you will see a list of dates and events around this annual Italian tradition. Don't miss your chance to try these oils as fresh as they can be (outside Italy)...

December 17th 12-2pm - Ethan Stowell of Union, Tavolata, Anchovies & Olives and How to Eat a Wolf will grace us with his culinary skills. He'll be working with a Tuscan olio novello, Olio Verde. This dense, cloudy oil is not to be missed.

Saturday December 19th 10-12pm - Armandino Batali of Salumi presents in only the manner he can, Tenuta di Capezzana's Olio Novello.

Saturday December 19th 12-2pm - Renee Erickson of Boat Street Cafe is on the docket as we explore Olio Verde's novello once again.

Tuesday December 22nd 2-4pm - Jeff Bergman presents perhaps the best oil in the world, Laudemio. Laudemio is great on a normal day but the novello version is life-changing.

Who likes Candy?
Did you know the average person gains only one pound each holiday? Why not offer up a few ounces to sweets this year? We are happy to present the following demos focused exclusively on confections...

December 21st 12-2pm - Maria of Curio Confections will show off her beautiful and elegant marshmallows, brittles and madeleines.

December 23rd 1-3pm - Confectionately Yours will grace us with yet another demo of their toffee - the best toffee you've ever had. Period.

We are very proud to offer some unique, small grower Champagnes this time of year. Try the Marc Hebrart Brut or the Gaston Chiquet 'Tradition' Brut. Both are superb examples of correct Champagne. We even have several of them in half-bottles to leave for Santa by the fire. Bruno Giacosa Barbera d'Alba is one of the greatest Barbera's in Italy. At half its regular price, it's now the greatest Barbera in Seattle. Check it out upstairs in our wine shop.

Upcoming Tastings:
December 19th 2-4pm - We'll taste Italian Wines from Dalla Terra. Please join us while we enjoy a Prosecco, Pinot Grigio, a Chianti and a unique Carmenere from the Veneto. The unmistakable Naomi Smith will be pouring.

DeLaurenti chef Garrett Abel, with a literary gun to his head, created this recipe as the ideal platform for the 2009 Ponticelli Olio Novello. The underlying starch and pork really show off the grassy, fresh extra virgin olive oil. This makes for a wonderful first course paired with an indigenous sangiovese such as Rossosole.

We have a few prodigal cheeses returning to the fold. They split for a while, lived lives of debauchery and cave-dwelling, only to return to the shop begging for a place in the case. Naturally, being the magnanimous folks we are, we accepted them back with open arms. Please join us in welcoming back Tome de Bordeaux. Fourme de Rochefort Montagne and Salers. The Tome is a semi-firm goat covered in juniper, thyme and rosemary from Vendee, France.

The Fourme de Rochefort hails only from the Auvergne in France. It's a raw milk cow with nutty notes and a milky flavor.

And finally, the Salers. You may remember the Salers from Connie's trip to the barren plateaus of the Auvergne. The big producers of the region make only 30-40 wheels per year of this quintessential farmstead, raw cow's milk cheese. As in no other cheese, you can taste the terroir and grasses of this starkly beautiful place.

One last thing in the Deli....White Truffles are in the air. It looks to be an earlier season this year so if you're interested in serving one of the world's true delicacies, please call our Deli and reserve a truffle today. (800.873.6685)

We have another option for spicy salame lovers: Molinari Hot Salame. This dry salami is just shy of a pepperoni and is "just right" in terms of heat. We think you'll like it. Speaking of hot, we now carry locally made Zoe's Chorizo. It comes in a stick and can be sliced - perfect for panini or atop your next home-made pizza.

We have three rules (well four, really) when it comes to putting our name on a product: 1) It's got to be really good. 2) It must be congruent with our store (no DeLaurenti half-shirts or sweat pants, sorry). And 3), it has to be a great value. I think we've come up with one of our last branded products: DeLaurenti Pasta Sauce. We weren't really looking for a private-label pasta sauce, but we liked this sauce so much, we asked the folks in Italy if they'd be willing to put our name on it. Sure enough, we fooled 'em and they agreed! Our sauce is made in Piedmont, Italy and features a little Barolo wine in the recipe. This is a wonderful base sauce (add sausage or veal) but can stand alone on pasta because the tomatoes are so sweet, tangy and delicious. I only hope we ordered enough to last through the holidays.

Nate couldn't resist the packaging and history of the famous Bazzini Nut Company. He ordered in a sample of the pistachios and they lasted a couple of minutes in the store. Bazzini nuts are roasted when we call them with our order (we have the Pistachios and Cashews) and you can tell the difference. They're perfectly salted (which means not a lot but enough) and like any good nut, addicting. We even have Pistachio Flour from Bazzini (recipe below).

It's never too early to plan your garden for next year. Indeed, if the weather's anything like our latest summer, we'll enjoy another glorious garden. Before you think I've gone off my rocker, keep reading. We have Italian seeds for planting! Chicory, Basil, Rosemary, Fava and Barlotto Beans, Roma and Red Cherry Tomatoes, Fennel, Arugula and on and on. All the seeds are imported from Italy and have a two-year shelf life - perfect for next spring.

24 October Buty Winery with Nina Buty pouring their latest September Releases.

31 October Wines of Substance. Bring your Periodic Table of Elements and get extra credit!

So we got this pistachio flour in from Bazzini and we were wondering what to do with it. We talked about encrusting pork with it or frying pork chops dusted with it, but those ideas seemed a little less than challenging. (We have a little more time on our hands in October, to be honest.) So we decided to make pasta with it. Give it a try if you've got a little extra time.

For enduring the shameless use of quotes above, we're going to let you in on a secret good deal. Neal's Yard Colston-Bassett Mini-Stiltons are now available for pre-order. I know they're a long way out - the holidays - but these cheeses take a slow ship from England then zoom across our huge country and get here just in time for the eating holidays. Call us with your information and we'll reserve one for you straight away. (800.873.6685)

From Rollingstone in Idaho, we have one of their rare aged goat cheeses, Idaho Goatster. Typically tangy and mildly nutty, you'll definitely taste the resemblance to their fresh chevre. We saw it rain once or twice recently, so we brought back the Rollingstone Pistachio & Basil Torta for the fall season. This wonderfully pretty cheese is not agoraphobic, so if the sun comes out, you're cool.

We have another option for spicy salame lovers: Molinari Hot Salame. This dry salami is just shy of a pepperoni and is "just right" in terms of heat. We think you'll like it. Speaking of hot, we now carry locally made Zoe's Chorizo. It comes in a stick and can be sliced - perfect for panini or atop your next home-made pizza.

You've heard of our famous, award winning chocolate chip cookies - the ones we sell piping hot in our café every day, right? Ever wanted to make them at home but were too embarrassed to ask for the recipe? No worries. We rolled the dough up in a log and packaged it in our refrigerator so you can take a pound of our chocolate chip cookie dough home and bake them off yourself. You can bake a fancy dessert but who in their right mind would pass up a hot chocolate chip cookie at the end of a meal? Nobody you should invite over, that's for sure!

And now for something completely different..... The Atlas 150 Wellness Colored Pasta Maker is now available at DeLaurenti. These anodized aluminum babies are nickel and chrome free so the pasta you taste will be the pasta you made (no tinny undercurrents). And yes, they come in colors! Blue, Red, Black are in stock. The Yellow, "Ice" Blue and Pink are available to order. These are truly Italian works of art that will function for generations in your kitchen. You have to see them!

Stephen has cornered the market on amazing Sangiovese from Tuscany and we are the beneficiaries. Castello di Monastero Sangiovese is quite simply a perfectly correct rendition of this noble grape. We're practically giving it away - in essence, were evangelizing for one of our favorite grapes. Stephen also has a line on the simply elegant 2004 Castello di Bossi Berardo Chianti Classico. Again, this is an incredible value for such an amazing bottle. With the recipe below and a bottle of the Berardo, you may have a perfect dinner.

As you know by know by now, wine tastings take place upstairs in our Wine Department each Saturday from 2-4pm and are always free. We pair cheeses with these wines to round out the experience. Here's what coming....

12 September - Stephen's Picks. Always worth the anticipation, Stephen's Picks will take you places maybe you haven't enologically travelled.

19 September - Maryhill Wines from Washington State. Classics from our great state.

This is a good one. You can make this a day ahead of time or even freeze an extra loin. When guests arrive, you'll kill 'em with your skills!

Hold on tight - we have lots of new stuff to talk about and most of it happens to be in cheese.
Serra di Estrela is a new Portuguese sheep's milk made with thistle rennet (as opposed to animal rennent). You can definitely taste the thistle! Estrella Family Creamery graces us with their cheese presence once again. Caldwell Crik Chevrette, Brewleggio, Old Apple Tree Tomme and Grisdale are all in. It's like going to their dairy in Montesano, near Olympia, without worrying about the cops on I-5 in Federal Way.

La Giostra & Il Saggio are new for us. Both are goat's milk cheeses from Sardegna with the Giostra being the milder, younger of the two. The Saggio is aged eight months and presents a nice, full-nutty/sweet flavor. We like washed-rind cheeses. They're maxed-out aromatically and their textures typically accompany a full-flavored, long finishing cheese. Add the cow's milk Aragone from Spain to the list of washed-rind favorites. Blue de Langa is mixed milk blue from the Alta Lange, Piedmont. Creamy and dense with not too much bluing-definitely a gateway blue. Ooh, this is a good one: Avonlea Cheddar. A raw, clothbound cow's milk cheddar from Prince Edward Island, Canada. Avonlea is very much in the mold of traditional English Cheddars. Cacio Fiori is an Italian thistle rennet sheep's milk cheese that's medium aged and classically nutty and "barnyardy" (that's good). L'Amuse Gouda hails from Essex Street (home of Daphne Zepos: one of our favorite Cheese Festival mavens). L'Amuse is a two-year old pasteurized Cow's milk that's characteristically dense and bordering on caramelized. Pecorino di Pienza has returned. This time veiled in a tomato washing. It's younger and dense and sort of like Ben & Jerry's Ice Cream -you shouldn't eat the whole wheel but you could.

And how's this for a period at the end of the sentence? Zoe's Hot Dogs are in. They're huge and delicious without the guilt - really.

Picture the rooftops of a Sicilian town covered with tomatoes. The tomatoes are crushed into a pate' and spread on taulieri ('wood boards') and left in the hot, Mediterranean sun to dry - absorbing the rays and the sea air (not a bad way to die if you're an Italian tomato). Once the tomatoes are perfectly transformed into tomato paste by adding a pinch of sea salt and extra virgin olive oil, Maria Grammatico jars them up and sends them off to us in the states. You'll find these little jars of tomato reincarnation only at DeLaurenti's.

Hello, Summer! Our thoughts have not only turned to crisp white wines and rosé but also to beer. Yes, pedestrian, everyman beer. Along with our perennial favorites there are some welcome newcomers on the shelf. Oskar Blues Brewery continues their string of great beers with the perfect Pils for the summer heat. And from the wonderful Terminal Gravity brewpub in Enterprise, Oregon, come the masterly crafted IPA and ESG (extra special golden). All perfect for the backyard barbeque or hanging out on the lawn.

As you may know, we offer FREE wine tastings every Saturday from 2-4pm upstairs in our Wine Department. Knowing this, you also know we pair cheeses to accompany these wines for your tasting pleasure. What's not to enjoy? Here's what's coming up....

11 July Washington winery Otis Kenyon

18 July Oregon wines from King Estate

25 July Fall Line wines presented by the winemaker Tim Sorenson

 

I'm torn as to what to present this time around. It's a toss-up between a Fregula Sarda pasta dish and a Ricotta Pasta Sauce....The Sarda wins!

This is a great recipe and you'll find a version of it on the package of pasta itself. I left out bottarga (salted, pressed tuna roe) because I think it's too salty for the dish but, of course, we sell bottarga and you're free to pile it on!

Finally, I love this dish because there's very little cooking (other than the pasta) and the leftovers make an even better pasta salad.

Since you'll be in the area this weekend, check out what Nate's brought in from around the globe.

If you've read this drivel before, you know we're sort of the "Trekies" of chocolate: We go where no store's gone before, which means we probably have too many varieties of chocolate in the store. But they all sell...and we just can't help ourselves.

So why not bring in just one more type of chocolate? For the same reasons they did another Star Trek movie: Because we like it and we can. I have to say that the Rogue Chocolatier (70% cocoa)Nate just brought in exposed the subtle but distinct differences between truly excellent chocolate and average chocolate. I can't promise, but if you try it, I predict your descriptions will progress from "Wow!" or "This is good!" to more ethereal, pensive comments, such as "It is better to have loved and lost than to not have loved at all." Or something to that effect.

And what makes it so good, you may wonder? Read on for good cocktail party fodder and the answer. Skip ahead if you just want to take my word for it.

Rogue Chocolatier is the first true artisan chocolate maker to arrive in the Upper Midwest. I source the finest cacao and clean, roast, winnow, grind, refine, conche, temper, mold, and package it myself. In this I hope to bring out the heart in each bean. The chocolate you are about to enjoy has kept me up late into the evening and woken me early in the morning for its care. It is the culmination of a three day process that ends in a product I love.
I hope you will too.

Colin J. Gasko
Founder / Chocolate Maker

Do you think whoever's running Nestle these days can say this? Me either. You gotta' root for a guy like this. (For more on Rogue and the Microbatch movement, go to www.craftchocolatemakers.org .)

We have a new DeLaurenti Riserva Extra Virgin Olive Oil. Most world-class specialty food purveyors would lead off with a fact this big, but we're humble in these times. Here's the scoop: We've sold a nice Sicilian olive oil for decades and figured it was time to put our name on a very nice extra virgin olive oil from Umbria. We'll still sell the Sicilian but the Umbrian oil will bear the DeLaurenti brand as well. It's full-bodied, filtered and redolent of olives. At $15.99 for a 500ml bottle, it's also an amazing value.

Bee Raw Honey returns to DeLaurenti. Nothing fancy here, just pure, simple honey made from spoiled bees with good work ethics. New for the planet, not just our store are Dolcezze de Caro flower candies. These soft jelly candies are made from sugar, water, and flower extracts grown in the Rivieri dei Fiori along the Ligurian Coast (near San Remo).

Chef Demos This Week!
Jacquelyn Buchannan is the Executive Chef for Laura Chenel's Chevre in California. An accomplished chef and culinary teacher, Jacquelyn will grace our shop with chevre-focused chef demonstrations upstairs in our kitchen. The demos will be held Thursday from 3-5pm and on Friday from 2-4pm. Come by and discover new ways to highlight the cheese Alice Waters made famous - Laura Chenel's Chevre.

By the way, you'll see a preview of lots of the cheese that'll be present at this year's Festival in the shop a few days early. Get a jump on the crowds and sneak out of work early this week...

Those who don't read this newsletter won't know the best kept secret about the Seattle Cheese Festival: wine tastings are free all weekend at DeLaurenti. Starting at noon and going until we're tired of sharing (or at least 4pm), we're pouring wines from around the state and around the world upstairs in our wine department.

For enduring this suggestive selling for so long, you are about to be rewarded with the winning recipe for this year's Seattle Cheese Festival Grilled Cheese Sandwich Contest! Can you believe it! KING, KOMO, CNN, FOX and the BBC all wanted it but we insisted on sharing it with you first. From the millions of entries, Cristal Ortiz's "Grilled Suds N' Cheese Sandwich" took top honors. The key to this one might be the beer butter, by the way....Oh, and you'll see Cristal create this masterpiece on Sunday at 11:30 at the ......Seattle Cheese Festival!

Ever been to Vermont? Me neither. And I don't plan on going anytime soon, alas. However, DeLaurenti does have a solution to your Vermont travel dilemma - we'll bring the best parts of The Green Mountain State to you! Well, the cheese, at least. Winnimere from Jasper Hill Farms is a seasonal cheese - only available in the late winter/early spring. Winnimere is truly an American Original cheese - there's nothing like it. Winnimere is washed with local Lambic and is made with raw Ayrshire milk, then wrapped in local spruce bark. In three words or less: rich, creamy, pungent. Connie doesn't rest on her laurels so she went after and snatched-up some Dorset from Consider Bardwell Farms. Bardwell's cheese maker is another Vermont legend, Peter Dixon.. (You remember Peter from our Cheese Festival two years ago, right?) Dorset's a washed-rind with the yin-yang of cheese: savory and buttery. Did I mention that it's pungent, too? I will resist the puns and just tell you we have Mixed Emotions from Lazy Lady Farms, too. All of these cheeses are ripened and cared for at the Jasper Hill Caves and released when they have met perfection. Check out this 5 minute video on the farm and the caves by Mateo.

Gianduia Gelato from Gelatiamo. I'm going to repeat that: Gianduia Gelato from Gelatiamo. If you are at a loss for what to do with this gelato, here's a suggestion...On the first floor: Delaurenti Brownie. Second floor: Gianduia Gelato. Third floor: Fran's chocolate syrup. While I'm on the subject of amazing, I should mention a few gems which have made it back on the shelves. Stramondo Pistachio Cream returns as does Acetaia Malpighi's White Balsamic Condiment. The pistachio cream makes any dessert calling for a rich, nutty addition an unforgettable indulgence. The white balsamic works wonderfully when you don't want to 'stain' your vegetables or fruit with its darker cousin. Speaking of balsamic, Nate's found a source for Balsamic Jelly in Acetaia Cattani. On toasted bread, grilled meats or cheeses, balsamic jelly really does make it all better.

Stephen's pulled in some spectacular values on wines from around the globe. Of particular note: The 2005 Côtes-du-Ventoux Syrah from J. Vidal Fleury and the Merlot-predominant 2004 Bordeaux from Chateau Marsau. If it gets sunny and you need a deck wine, grab the Allegrini Soave. In fact, I think Allegrini Soave is Italian for "sun-drenched deck?"

Upcoming Wine Tastings
As always, tastings are from 2-4 on Saturdays. They're free. They're upstairs in our wine department. And they re accompanied by mirth and well-thought-out cheeses.

• 7 March Washington State winery Shady Grove with an introduction of Spanish varietals here in the Northwest

• 14 March Washington State winery Steppe Cellars

• 21 March Spanish wines like Rioja, Verdejo, Albariño, etc.

My wife's family calls the soupy remains at the bottom of any dish "mogi-mogi" (pronounced "mo-gee, mo-gee"). I'm not sure why but it's probably Italian dialect or slang for "eat-it, eat-it". In any event, it's what they fight over at the end of the meal. I've only been around for about 20 years but I'm getting pretty good at the mogi-mogi grab. When you want to force the mogi-mogi, make bagna cauda.

Rollingstone Chevre is back. The goats have kidded, so the milk is fatty and rich. Banons are in, too. These little goat discs are wrapped in macerated leaves. Just warm them in a frying pan, and they are perfect for salads. Pond Hopper just in from Tumalo Farms has a new complexity since we last had it - quite savory and 100% goat. Only a few Valentine cheeses left: Coeur du Berry heart shaped goat cheese covered in dried cranberries, Atout Couer is a double crème heart shaped brie, and Couer Fleuri is a goat disc with a dried cranberry heart and trimmed with rose petals. Irresistible! Grilled Rosemary Tuscan ham is back in after a 6-month vacation to Italy. Winter Salami from Salumi returns. This is Armandino's seasonal selection with three types of peppercorn: red, white and green.

You may remember our Amadei Chocolate courting story. Well, it appears as though they're smitten with us! As proof, they've allowed us to sell their prized Porcelana Bar. The Porcelana Bar is made from the rarest cocoa bean in the world. Find out why next time you're in the shop. New for us is the November harvest olive oil from Hillstone in Yolo, CA. Grassy and a bit nutty, this oil reminds me of home (the Sacramento Valley) in the summer. So does Seattle really need another coffee roaster? Well, yes!

Herkimer Coffee owner Mike is a throw-back to the long lost days of passionate coffee roasters. He LOVEs his beans and is 'mad scientist'-devoted to them and their blending. He knows that supreme blending comes from exquisite varietals and he's mastered the art. You can't find this coffee just anywhere so we're pumped to have an opportunity to sell it.

Sapori di Napoli has two new additions to their line of pasta: Pappardelle and Tagliatelle. . Close your eyes and imagaine dried pappardelle that's not crushed and tastes like fresh. Open your eyes and you'll see Sapori di Napoli Pasta.

Upcoming Tastings

12 February
Autumn, Theo Chocolate's Master Chocolatier, will be tasting their "Aphrodisiac Collection" of chocolate truffles from 2-4pm

13 February
Sue from Confectionately Yours shows-off her English Toffee from 12-2pm
Then Ivy from Cocoa Chai will dazzle us with samples of her specialty truffles from 2-4pm

14 February
Theo Chocolate again from 2-5pm

Europe had its run at the top of the monetary food chain the last few years but that reign has come to an end: That means prices are dropping for some of our favorite wines and values are to be had by wine lovers who frequent out of the way, passionate and devoted wine shops. I can think of one shop in particular that prides itself on searching for the smaller producer and the out-of-the-ordinary wines from Europe (and the rest of the world, for that matter). Its bearded acquirente di vino is pleased to help and always with a smile. The address is 1435 1st Avenue in Seattle. Check it out.

Upcoming Wine Tastings
As always, wine tastings happen upstairs in our wine department from 2-4 on Saturdays and are accompanied by expertly choreographed cheese tastings.

• 14 February - This is a shameful play on your emotions but we're going to do it anyway. How's this for a heartfelt line-up? Sophia Rose, Canella Blood Orange Mimosas, d'Arenberg's Love Grass Shiraz and Presidential Ruby Porto.
• 21 - February - Values from Europe including numbers from the Cotes du Ventoux, Montalcino and maybe Bordeaux.

Since we have wonderful fresh buckwheat pasta in the shop now, you have to try this recipe.

Panettone is a symbol of Italian Christmas and this could be our most diverse panettone offering ever. Check out the names:

Perugina     Cole Volpe     Rustichella d'Abruzzo     Corsini
Le Logge     Le Tre marie     Sclafani     Fiasconaro

Pandoro is similar to panettone but a little denser and without the candied fruit. Dusted with confectioner's sugar, pandoro is perfect with coffee or as 'French' toast. We have pandoro from Le Tre Marie, Perugina (mini's), Corsini and Bindi (mini's)

Panforte (strong bread) is also back in strong numbers. Panforte from Corsini, Fiasconaro. We are also selling panforte from Le Logge by the slice in our Deli.

Bakers will be happy to see their traditional ingredients, too. Anise oil for the pizelle is back.
Marron s Glace from France (Faugier) and Italy (La Florentine). Chestnut Spread and Cream (the cream is sweetened). Candied fruit for all your fruit- cake baking needs (including Citron whole and diced).

Marzipan from Carsten's returns in traditional log-form and in holiday 'marzipan fruits'. For you cat lovers, of which I count myself one, dipped chocolate marzipan 'toungues' return, as well.

Torrone is always in the store, but we like to go to torrone extremes this time of year. La Florentine and Fiasconaro are wonderfully traditional as is a new brand - Festa. The Festa torrone is dipped in chocolate and presented in a handsome package - good inside and out.

Wondering how to make your dessert simple but special? Of course you weren't but now that you are, try Fabri. Fabri is a name you'll recognize for their Amarena Cherries and Fragola (strawberries in syrup). Fabri also makes Grappuva. Grappuva is a jar of white wine grapes soaked in grappa. The staff keeps saying they're great in martini s - I wouldn't know. Over ice cream or in crepes sounds more my speed. Cole Volpe, famous panettone producer, also makes a special treat this time of year: Dried-Candied Figs. You'll see Matt strolling about the store with tastes of these little dandies. Think Dolce Gorgonzola with them for dessert, perhaps.

Macrina makes the best stuffing mix around and Chocolate Brioche. Don't believe me? Come find out for yourself at one of the following Macrina Demos:

22 November - 10-noon, Macrina Stuffing Mix
23 November - From 10-noon, Macrina Chocolate Bread Pudding
24 November - From 3-5pm, Macrina Stuffing Mix

Kinder Eggs are back! What more can I say?

Stichelton. What on earth?! They couldn't call it Stilton because it's made with raw milk. Stichelton is what Stilton wants to be. We just cracked a new wheel and it is the only way to fly after your huge Thanksgiving feast. Impress them with cranberries - on the cheese! Brillat-Savarin now makes a triple cream covered in French cranberries. Rollingstone Chevre of Idaho graces us with their seasonal Cranberry Torta, too.

White Alba Truffles will arrive Tuesday, November 25th. These are the first of the season and they promise to be splendid. Not quite as pricey as last year so reserve yours today. Call our deli to place yours on hold with a credit card.

The DeLille, Cayuse, and Ken Wright allocations have arrived. As a retailer, we get the scraps that fall from the restaurant tables on these rare wines so our inventory is light. First come, first served! Not sure what to drink with Thanksgiving? How about four brief ideas: Viognier, Dolcetto, Cabernet Franc and Beaujolais. No, not Beaujolais Nouveau - egad! Viognier is a fuller bodied wine with good acidity and fruitiness to pair well with tryptophan (the sleepy ingredient in turkey). Dolcetto is a wonderful red-fruit tasting wine from northern Italy that has a bit of tannin and acid to pair well with the potatoes, turkey/lamb and beans. And it's from Italy and we like that. Cabernet Franc is my new favorite red. It goes with lots of meats and foods, is luscious and fulfilling and has a long finish. Done right, it's superb. Cab Franc hails from France in the form of Chinon. Lastly, Beaujolais. Much like Cab Franc and Dolcetto with nice tannins and ripe fruit, the real Beaujolais is never banana-y or Jolly Rancher-like. Stephen will be proud to recommend one of these Thanksgiving wines upstairs. What's that? Forget all that? OK. Champagne it is! Try something different - a farmstead bubbly with a name you've never heard of like Jose Dhondt or Vazart-Coquart. These sparkelrs are made from fruit on the farm and typically by mom-and-pop producers. Stephen searches for these types of Champagnes (and wines, for that matter) and the pay-off is memorable.

Upcoming Wine Tastings
It's always the same but bears repeating: Wine tastings are always free, always upstairs in the wine Department and always 2-4pm on Saturdays.

• 22 November - South African Wines
• 29 November - Italian Wines from Dalla Terra
  SPECIAL GUEST: Renee of Boat Street Café will be here to do a demo of her delicious condiments (the pickled onions are my favorite.)
• 6 December - A Port in a Storm. It's perfect timing for a Port Tasting - join us!

Everyone should know that eating seasonally is the best way to enjoy the best nature has to offer us.  We're big propagandists of this philosophy so it's with pride we can now offer Cowgirl Creamery's PIERCE PT.  PIERCE PT is made only in the fall and winter with organic milk from the Straus Family Dairy.  Washed with Moscato wine and dusted with local herbs, this semi-soft beauty has been worth the wait.

Tomini Sott'olio is completely new for us.  These little cow's milk discs are soaked in truffled sunflower oil and nearly defy description. You'll be tempted to drop these down like Cheetos but the patient among us are rewarded with joyful bites of rich, dense, earthy cow's milk goodness.  Did I mention there are truffles in these little Tomini?   Sole de Sardinia, a traditonal pecorino from Sardinia, is the perfect table cheese or makes your favorite pasta better.  

Finally, fall is washed-rind cheese season around here.  The weather is turning cool and we want to drink red wines and make a fire.  We have a few classics: Camembert washed in Calvados and the Petit Vigneron au Marc de Gewurztraminer from Fromi.  That's right; these guys are washed in Calvados (apple brandy) and Gewurztraminer, respectively.  Cabernet Franc goes great with these as does, you guessed it; Champagne!  Psst...Cougar Gold is in the house.

When Nate brings in a sample of a new product, we all get to taste it. Only the truly worthy quickly enter the DeLaurenti version of word-association. Here's how it works: we taste the item (in this case, the Villa Manodori Bark Cherry Balsamic Vinegar), then we immediately shout out foods the item would be great with. The best pairing is accepted as True with approving nods as we separate from our tasting huddle. Massimo Bottura of Osteria Francescana in Modena, Italy has taken the Villa Manodori Balsamic and aged it in Vignola Cherry Wood barrels. All agreed to the amazing depth and strength of the cherry in this unique condiment. Oh, the winning pairings: vanilla ice cream and fowl.

Giuseppe Giusti is the oldest balsamic vinegar producer currently still in production. Founded in 1598, they age their 4 year, six year, and 10 year vinegar in barrels that are over 200 years old. Tradition and lineage matter in balsamic vinegars and Giusti aces both criteria.

Stephen just last week returned from a junket to Walla Walla. Imagine: a bus filled with wine buyers from Seattle unleashed upon the hard-working farmers of Walla Walla - at harvest time, no less! Stephen reports of an air of uncertainty given the unstable weather over the course of the season; late spring, no summer and early fall. The big question: will the grapes ripen? For those patient growers, indeed, they are ripening nicely. Nice quantities of grapes are coming into the wineries very flavorful, according to Stephen. Stephen also notes that Walla Walla is slang for "growth". New wineries continue to crop up (irresistible, sorry). It will be interesting what comes of these newest ventures....

Upcoming Wine Tastings

We hold free wine tastings upstairs in our wine department every Saturday from 2-4pm. It's quiet in the Market these days so come on down - there's no football worth watching on Saturdays, right?

11 October - Evergreen Vineyards of Oregon
18 October - Italian Wines
25 October - Washington Wines
1 November - Watermill Winery of Oregon
8 November - It's back to Italy. Why not?

 

Michele and I had this the other night at a restaurant out of town and thought it would be great as a spread on a sandwich (rosemary cotto, cannellini bean spread, arugula) or as just a nice addition to your antipasto plate atop toasted bread.